Internal Joinery

Internal joinery may not be the most glam of the home improvement but do it well and it changes the entire mood of your house. Well-fitted skirting boards, hung doors that fit properly and do not snatch, well-mitred architraves – these are just a few features that distinguish a professional job to a DIY bodge work.

Renovating an older house and need to replicate the joinery in the house, or simply need to upgrade weary chipboard doors and plasticky skirting with something that has honesty? we have a selection of choices in any of the timbers and finishes. And we will not push a product that is the most expensive as some suppliers do. we will actually walk you through what you need.

Skirting Boards

Skirting boards not only conceal the space between the wall and floor, but save your plaster block scuffing, provide your decorator with a pretty termination, and add to the decoration of your rooms. The profile that you are using does really matter to the feel of the room.

Taller forms of profile, such as Torus or Ogee, are well used in traditional Victorian and Edwardian houses. The designs of modern properties are usually simpler and squarer. We carry the plain chamfered skirting up to the ornate period mouldings in MDF to be painted, or plain wood such as pine, oak and tulipwood.

Height usually goes between 70mm of lowly modern fashions to 220mm of big houses of the time. It is in the proportions – lean skirting in a Victorian high-ceilinged room is plain, and large mouldings are overpowering in a small modern room.

Architraves

Your doorways and windows are framed with architraves and provide a smooth passage between the wall and the frame. They are utilitarian – fulfilling the unavoidable gaps and flaws at intersection points between frames and plaster – and are ornamental, as well, providing definition and interest to openings.

The golden rule in the use of architraves is to match or complement by profile of skirting board. The application of entirely different styles is untidy and disoriented. The majority of individuals make architrave a little narrower than skirting – it is more aesthetically balanced.

We are also providing coordinating architrave profiles on all our skirting ranges, which are offered in the same timber species. Common widths are between 50mm and 95mm, with a range of ornamental profiles being between simple pencil-round and more ornamental period designs.

Internal Doors

Your internal doors are used dozens of times in a day, and that is why quality is important. Cheap hollow chipboard doors may be cheap but they are flimsy, sound as nobody does business with them, and they dent even when you look at them the wrong way. Timber doors that are solid or engineered are robust, reduce noise more, and they endure decades instead of years.

We carry both traditional panel doors – the most popular to date used in period and family houses – and modern flush door designs used in the modern day. They are available in primed finish ready to be painted, ready to be made into frames to be easily hung in, or as door blanks to have the greatest flexibility.

Oak doors are cosy and help to add the charm especially in corridors and the living room. Painted hardwood is very much suitable in bedrooms and bathrooms. Do not overlook the fire doors where they have to be placed according to the laws – we may advise where you are to have them.

Door Linings & Frames

Your doors have door linings (or frames, or casings – the terms used are different) and it is these that your doors actually hang in. Make them square, plumb and fixed properly, and your doors will open and close sweetly many years. Instal the frame with bogging and you will never stop making adjustments.

Ready-to-assemble adjustable frames also save enormous time in comparison with the creation of casings in-place with loose timber. They are available in a standard size to fit as many UK wall thicknesses as there is, with flexible parts to fit minor variations.

We are selling softwood door linings to be painted and oak or any other hardwood to be naturally finished. Fit the timber to your door to have a co-ordinated effect, or have contrast to add a touch of interest to it.

Window Boards

The window boards (or cills or sills, according to your locality) make that handy shelf in the inside of your windows, and where you can have plants, and ornaments, or just your cup of tea. They plaster the base of the window reveal in a clean manner and guard the plaster against condensation damage.

MDF window boards are acceptable provided that you intend to paint them – it is firm, smooth and cost effective. Natural beauty with oak, pine or tulipwood timber boards are real, and are especially suited to use in period houses or where you desire that quality feel.

Typical depths are 225mm or 300mm, although we are also able to provide broader boards where you desire deeper reveals or to have a larger ledge. Do not forget to leave some overhang on the front – say 20-30mm should be about right.

Staircase Parts

Staircases are very serious in terms of wear and tear and the replacement parts must be worthy of the task. It does not matter whether you are refurbishing an old staircase or you are constructing a new one the quality of the components is going to make a massive difference both to the look and also to the durability.

Our newel posts, baserails, handrails, spindles and other staircase components are available in different timbers and designs. The turned spindles are very suitable in the period of time, but the square or chamfered ones are effective in the modern space.

Durable and traditional good appearance is added by oak staircase sections. Pine is cheaper and can be stained or painted. A good compromise is hemlock – not as expensive as oak and not as soft as the pine.

Choosing the Right Timber

The best internal joinery is oak – beautifully grained, far too hard-wearing, and it shows a beautiful age-related patina. It is especially well fitting in period houses where you desire that heavy quality feel. Oak also receives oils and lacquers, and may be light stained, should you desire a change of colour.

The downside? Oak is very expensive when compared to softwoods. However, in the case of hallways, staircases and other high-traffic places, the investment usually pays off. It will last longer than lower-priced materials by far.

Pine & Softwoods
Pine is immensely popular in painted joinery – it is cheap, can be cut in long lengths, and paint on it beautifully. Redwood pine is especially high quality and exceptionally less knotty and very stable.

The softwood is not highly dent resistant as hardwoods are hence it marks easily in busy locations. However, in the case of bedrooms, ceilings, and space where you are intending to paint regardless, this is just sufficient and cost effective.

Tulipwood
Tulipwood (also called hardwood, but it is a hardwood) is a tremendous compromise between pine and oak. It is more difficult and more stable than softwood, cuts like a dream to produce crisp profiles and is cheaper than oak. The grain is pale, and subtle, and beautiful under the clear finishes or painted.

Tulipwood is favoured by professional joiners working on painted work due to its lower propensity to movement and cracking than pine that provides a more stable finished surface with reduced chance of cracking during work and less likely to require sprucing-up after the work.

MDF
Lately MDF skirting and architrave has been enhanced significantly. Waterproof versions are currently in existence and the ones that are already primed save time on preparation. It is dimensionally stable (will not expand and contract with changes in humidity like timber), machines to some of the sharpest profiles, and it is the cheapest alternative.

MDF needs to be painted – it can not be natural. It is also heavier than timber and is not as feelable. However, in case of rental houses, new construction or where the budget is constrained, contemporary MDF is very suitable.

Styles and Profiles

Period Property Profiles
The homes of the Victorian and Edwardian period were characterised by the use of a grand moulding profile that had several curves and designs. Torus, Ogee and Lamb Tongue profiles are all a creation of this period. The skirting was generally high – 150mm high – and arch-moulds were deep as well.

When renovating an older building, it is a good idea to attempt to create matched profiles to as near as possible. It preserves the nature of the property and is much better than the combination of modern and traditional styles. Give us a sample or a photograph and we can most likely match it or propose the nearest standard portrait.

Contemporary Designs
Contemporary architecture is now more inclined towards clean lines and simple profiles. Square or chamfered skirting, understated architraves (or even none), frameless flush doors are all typical of modern constructs.

There are also some general decreases in height – 70mm to 120mm skirting is a commonplace in contemporary houses, as opposed to 150-220mm in older houses. The ratios fit the generally low ceiling heights of new constructions.

Transitional Styles
The vast majority of houses are situated between high-Victorian and ultra-modern. Plain pencil-round or ovolo profiles fill the gap well – they are not too detailed or traditional. These are employed in all types of 1930s semis up to converted barns.

Self-Installation or Professional?
Skirting boards and architraves can all be fitted by a good DIYer, but you will need a good mitre saw (preferably a sliding compound saw), the ability to measure and mark and patience. The internal corners should be scribed as opposed to mitring so that they fit best, and this is something that practise makes perfect.

More professional is hanging doors. It takes practise and decent door-hanging equipments to get them plumb, even all around, and fitting in such a manner that they are able to close without binding. Unless they have done it themselves, most people are better off hiring a carpenter in to do the doors.

Staircases are certainly the professional domain of building, and the rules of the building regulations are observed, and the errors are both risky and costly. Never do staircase work without training and experience.

Complete and Maintenance Joinery.

Painting Joinery
In painted finishes all is preparation. Seal any knots or flaws with wood filler, sand and put on wood primer. This adheses the timber and not resin oozing through the paint. Undertop with your option of topcoat – either satinwood or eggshell are the classic selections, which provide strength and a slight gloss.

Quality brushes are used – bad ones leave brush marks and do not take up enough colour. Two coats were beaten by a single one of the thickness. Lightly brush sand between the coats using a fine abrasive paper to achieve the most perfect finish.

Natural Finishes
In oak and other hard woods that you would wish to display, there exist clear oils or lacquers which preserve but allow the grain to be seen through. Oils absorb into the wood and are simple to use and maintain, although they have to be reapplied after some time. Hard wax oils combine the advantage of the two oils and lacquers.

On the surface they are covered with lacquers and varnishes that offer greater protection and need less maintenance. The new water-based lacquers do not oxidise as the old-fashioned varnishes do, and also dry fast, and with less odour.

Maintenance
Painted joinery also requires some finishing occasionally where it is rubbed or chipped off – have some old paint on hand to make a quick repair. It has a light sand and fresh top coat after every few years to keep it looking smart.

Oiled wood is also good to have an extra layer of oil every 12-18 months especially in areas that have a lot of traffic. All you need to do is clean the surface, rub a little cloth on it, allow to seep into the surface and wipe off any surplus.

FAQs

Shall I match my skirting and my architrave?
Yes, generally. The same profile will make your home be visual harmonised. Other timber species can be used in case of painting but ensure that the profiles are hooked up. The only one is when you are consciously creating a contrast – such as retaining original fancy Victorian skirting but with more simple architraves.

Which height skirting board do I want?
Copy what already exists in that case you are replacing parts but otherwise go by your ceiling height and room proportions. High ceilings (3 metres+) suit 150-220mm. The height of standard 2.4 ceilings comes out as even with 120-150mm. Low ceilings of modern origin (2.3 metres or less) are accommodated with 70-120mm better. In case of doubt, small but taller looks better than short.

Is it possible to use MDF skirting in bathroom areas or in kitchens?
Normal MDF does not perform well in a wet area – it can even swell when it gets wet. Nevertheless, moisture-resistant MDF (typically, green in colour) can be used in such rooms provided that it is properly primed and painted. Alternatively, tulipwood or oak that can take moisture naturally can be used.

How would I match old existing skirting in my old house?
Get a small piece or a rubbing/photo, and come to us. A lot of conventional profiles are still produced in a standard format. In case yours is non-standard, other companies that specialise in joining can recreate custom profiles, but there is typically a minimum order quantity which makes this uneconomical with small quantities.

What is the reason why door frames cost as much as the doors?
Door linings of good quality consume a lot of timber, especially hardwood. They must also be accurately fit – doors will not fit well in badly made frames. Ready-set doorsets (door made ready-built in frame) frequently prove to be more economical and much simpler to instal.

So what is the distinction between a door lining and a door casing?
It is mainly local terms to describe the same thing – the frame that the door is suspended in. In the UK it is referred to more as lining, in the US as casing. In some cases, frame refers to the external door frame and the internal ones to the lining, although the usage is inconsistent. You do not have to worry much about terminology, we will know what you will need!

Need Help Choosing Joinery?
The right joinery is what will make the difference between the way your renovation or new build works out. You may need guidance on profiles and timber species, assistance with the calculations, or you may have some joinery that you are planning to get to fit, and we are pleased to discuss the matter with you.

We may also suggest local fitters who can be trusted in case of installation needs.

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